Millivers Travels » DESTINATIONS

A Sakhalin Road Trip

Brian R. Williams — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 20:42:32 +0000

By guest blogger Brian R. Williams

SEEKING ADVENTURE AND income in the Spring of 2005, I took on a job as construction manager on the remote island of Sakhalin, Russia, situated less than fifty miles north of Japan. I never knew this place existed, but it was to be my home for an undetermined period of time.

My employer was based in the capital city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, recently transformed by the discovery of a vast oil field at the north end of the island. After recovering from the culture shock and settling in to something of a routine, I began to enjoy the city and social excursions with my new Russian friends.

Four weeks into the project, I was to visit construction sites near Chayvo on the northern part of the island. My chosen mode of travel was by car, since it offered the best opportunity for a hands-on experience. After acquiring a well-equipped Land Cruiser and shady-looking driver, Vladimir, from the motor pool, co-worker Victor and I settled in for a chauffer-driven tour covering over 400 of Sakhalin’s 589 miles.

Vlad knew very little English and didn’t speak much. Victor had a limited grasp of our language, but at least we could communicate. The first couple hours we traveled smooth, paved highways from town to town, making our way to the eastern coast road, which followed some 30 miles of beach along the Sea of Okhotsk—better known as the North Pacific.

The neighborhood where we stopped for BBQ

A few miles up the coast, Victor announced we would be stopping at a restaurant for lunch, known for its barbecue. Not the type of cuisine I was expecting, but it sounded good. We pulled up next to a group of houses on the beach. Nothing here resembled an eating establishment; there was not even a sign to indicate its presence. “Was this somebody’s house?” I wondered aloud. “Come, we go” was the answer. Inside the unmarked cottage was a tiny café and a few small tables. Though not drowned in BBQ sauce, the tender pork was as good as any I’d had in Texas.

Time for a pit-stop before hitting the road again. “Where’s the banya?” I asked. Vlad pointed to a tiny A-frame shack further down the beach. It was an outhouse, with a hole in the floor and some newspaper (no, not for reading). No light, no heat, no water. I just imagined what it must be like in the winter.

Again I solicited my travel partners, using sign language to indicate washing hands, this time being led to the other side of the café where an outdoor basin was mounted on the side of a deck. And once more I pondered the weather in January.

Back on the road, Vladimir popped in a Pink Floyd cassette. It was perfect. Misty low-hanging clouds over an alien landscape merged with the eerie music to create a completely surreal experience (see main photo).

Entering Vzmor’e

Our next stop was in the town of Vzmor’e, where we’d say da-svedanya (goodbye) to the ocean view. Vzmor’e was a small village, marked by a tilted rusty sign. The road was lined with dilapidated old buildings and junk yards. There was life here, as evidenced by people and animals walking along the highway. This was clearly the primary means of travel for most residents.

“Time for dessert,” says Victor as we pull in to what looks like a small roadside flea market near the edge of town. The vendors’ folding tables were lined up in front of their cars, some covered in sheets. This seemed an odd way to sell one’s wares.

Victor with our “dessert”

As we approached the first table, we were greeted by a smiling babushka as she lifted her sheet to reveal a beautiful collection of freshly cooked snow crabs. Our selections cost no more than $3 apiece. Standing next to the car, we consumed these delectable snacks using only our bare hands.

Still early into the trip, this would be our last stop for some time. A few miles out of town, we came across the remains of a recent accident – a tractor-trailer had lost control on a sharp inclined curve and rolled.

Vladimir was rummaging through his cassette case again, this time emerging with Chris Rea. A couple minutes later the pavement ended. It was at this point Vlad turned to me with a sinister grin. “Now you are on the road to Hell!” which just happened to be the song’s namesake. We all laughed out loud. But should I trust this guy?

The seemingly endless but well-traveled dirt road took us through the vast central valley, protected from the sea by a volcanic mountain range, its mile-high peaks lost in the clouds. As we traveled northward, I noticed there was less and less foliage on the trees. It was already June, yet we were fast leaving spring behind.

Stuck in the mud

We soon discovered just how bad this road could be when we came upon a 6-wheel-drive truck with 48” mud tires, buried to the axles in the middle of the road. After a long smoke-break chatting with other travelers, Vlad inspected the scene and decided we would try to make it through.

There was a set of deep ruts around one side of the disabled truck. My years of off-road experience told me it was iffy at best. But Vlad was an excellent driver and the Toyota’s oversized mud tires provided barely enough clearance. Whew. The idea of camping out there was less than appealing.

While I was wondering how they might free the stranded truck, we passed a dozer heading that way.

Japanese bunker from WWII

Near the exact center of the island, we pulled over just before a river crossing. This was a historic site, marked by a WWII memorial. There were several old bunkers, which I learned were installed by the Japanese during the time they occupied the southern half of Sakhalin, from 1905 until 1945 when the war ended. To this day, five of the Kuril islands—reaching all the way into the eastern bay of Hokkaido, Japan—are still in dispute.

The final leg of our journey was uneventful but afforded some unusual wildlife sightings, including an arctic fox and a glimpse of the protected Steller’s Sea Eagle, known in Russian as “Orlan.”

It was an unforgettable ride, through a part of Russia seldom visited by outsiders.

—–

Brian Williams

BRIAN WILLIAMS is an electronics engineer and consultant, specializing in telecommunications. Through his company, ComTekk, he designs software for public safety communications. Brian was a wilderness Search & Rescue volunteer for over ten years in the Rocky Mountains of northern New Mexico. He functioned as a State Police Field Coordinator for five years, commanding more than fifty successful SAR missions. Brian is the main photographer for Milliver’s Travels.

Balm Beach Sunset

Milli Thornton — Sun, 25 Jul 2010 20:59:49 +0000

IT WAS OUR last night of a fabulous B&B getaway on Georgian Bay (Ontario, Canada). We wanted a low-key, low-budget way to round off our 4th of July long weekend trip, so we asked our Beacon Shore B&B hosts for a recommendation.

Bob & Jacquie told us about the Georgian Grill in Balm Beach, where the historically-minded owners have been making great hamburgers with their secret recipe since 1934. Bob told us Balm Beach would also be a great place to get some sunset pics, so we were sold.

The Surf Restaurant had a jaunty longboat-style entrance

When we arrived in Balm Beach—on the opposite side of the peninsula from our B&B in Midland—we noticed Georgian Grill was part of a strip of shops with cars parked out front. Although they have umbrella tables, and although you can see the beach across the road from their sidewalk patio, we were hankering to sit on a deck right on the beach. So we opted for nearby Surf Restaurant, which was not crowded now that the holiday weekend was finito.

(It was also Canada Day weekend.)

We lucked out with a table right next to the beach, and our waitress helped expedite the fast delivery of our dinner (we were in a bit of hurry not to miss the sunset).

Burgers & beer at the Surf Restaurant

The burgers were fully loaded and yummy—albeit made with pre-formed meat patties, so maybe not quite up to par with the “secret recipe” at the other burger joint—and they went down exceptionally well with a beer. I had an ice-cold Corona in a Canadian emblem glass with a generous wedge of lime, and it tasted miiiighty good while watching the beach-goers frolic with their kids.

When it was time for the beach sunset, we drove from the restaurant to the beach parking area. Since Balm Beach is incredibly tiny (it’s part of Tiny Township), we only did this because we would have missed the sun sinking below the horizon. Otherwise, it would be an easy stroll across the beach from the restaurant.

Families frolic on the front beach

The family beach area where we ate dinner was not the best angle from which to capture the sunset, so we clambered over rocks to get to what in Australia we’d term the “back beach” (the one less frequented by tourists). There were a few seasoned souls there, lounging or cuddling on the slippery rocks, and I had a feeling this might be a local tradition.

While I waded in the brisk water and let my feet settle blissfully into the wet sand, Brian took shots of the sunset. I used what I reckon was his best one for the main photo. Do you approve?

Naturally, we did not want our beach sunset interlude to end. But if one really must have the Oh-Bummer-Last-Night-of-Mini-Vacation blues, this was just the ‘balm’ we needed to ease us through.

Another bummer was that I missed my chance to meet Patti Friday. Patti is a world-read blogger who lives in Wasaga Beach, about 20 miles by road from Balm Beach. I found her colorful blog as I was researching our dinner options, but sadly it was way too late to email her to suggest meeting for coffee as fellow writers. Wah!! But here’s her page about Balm Beach (she has some great photos): Wasaga Beach News + Opinion > You Should Visit Balm Beach.

Hola, Patti!

The Chifley Home, Bathurst, Australia

Al McCartan — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:52:51 +0000

Bathurst is in New South Wales (NSW), about two-and-a-half hour’s drive west of Sydney. Of the six states and two territories, NSW is Australia’s most populous state.

YOU’VE DONE THE Blue Mountains tour and it’s now time to go farther west. why not make Bathurst the next stop on your itinerary? Bathurst, Australia’s oldest inland settlement, and home to some pretty darn good tourist traps.

Stopping in Bathurst means enjoying the relaxed atmosphere – no hustle or bustle – over a cup of your favourite coffee or perhaps a romantic dinner in one of our many classy eateries.

Our world-famous Mount Panorama Race Circuit and museum is sure to attract the speed lovers and the wine lovers. Mt. Panorama has just completed brand new accommodations too.

There’s also a vineyard and cellar specializing in cool-climate wines. More about these in another story.

Museum lovers – hey! We’ve got them. The Australian Fossil and Mineral Museum, which is home to the famous Somerville fossil collection, and the other main attraction, The Chifley Home.

The Chifley Home is a must-see. This is the home of Australia’s favourite prime minister, Ben Chifley (1885–1951).

If this house had a voice it would be telling you to come on down to 10 Busby Street, make yourself at home and look around. You’ll be warmly welcomed by curator, Sam Malloy, or one of his dedicated team members.

The Chifley Home is certainly not like other museums. No! It’s someone’s place and on entering you’d be forgiven for thinking the owner had stopped the clock in 1949.

The desk of Australia's favourite prime minister, Ben Chifley (1885–1951)

You’ll see the lounge room and Ben’s favourite chair but you won’t see a television set – Australia didn’t go there until 1956 – but, yes, there is a radio and an array of newspapers of the time, and magazines.

Mr. Chifley, an inveterate pipe smoker – he was never seen without his beloved pipe – has left his pipe and all the bits and pieces, such as pipe cleaners, on display. You’ll also see other memorabilia of that era.

Central heating – nope! Open fires served to heat the rooms and beat the chilly Bathurst winters. The fuel was mainly wood or coal (coke when available). Rationing of many items abounded in the ’40s.

As you wander into Mrs. Chifley’s kitchen, you’ll see how she coped without the mod cons we take for granted today. Maybe you’ll be able to have a sneaky-peek at some 1940s recipes. Time stands still here to allow us to view the original bedrooms with the décor and furnishings of the 1940s.

Going to Mr. and Mrs. Chifley’s home is like being invited around to a friend’s place for tea and a chat. The ambience is that strong.

The Chifley Home, 10 Busby Street, Bathurst is open Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Group bookings are catered for. To find out more visit Chifley Home online or contact the Bathurst Visitor’s Information Centre (BVIC). You’ll find BVIC on your left as you cross the Macquarie Bridge heading for town, or phone 1800 68 1000.

——

Al McCartan doing the morning shift at 2MCE-FM

AL McCARTAN lives in Bathurst with a redhead (aka Cheryl), one cat (Milo) and about 200 stuffed teddy bears. He has worked with the Department of Defence in Canberra, as a journalist with the Army Newspaper and with the Recruiting Directorate. As a sideline he became an easy listening music DJ and he still practices that medium as morning DJ at 2MCE-FM. Al says, “Reading, writing, fine dining and music are my likes. Oh! I’m nuts about history and I like to slant my writings to the good (and bad) old days.”

Big Chute!

Milli Thornton — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 22:11:58 +0000

BRIAN IS ALWAYS reading boating magazines and dreaming of cruising the pleasure-boat waterways of the world.

He’d love to do the San Juan Islands in a Nordhavn 62-footer (around $2 million pre-loved, including VIP stateroom). Or, for those moments when the budget calls for something a little more modest, how ’bout the Saint Lawrence River in a 29-foot Ranger Tug (just under $225,000 for the 2010 model).

Millionaire dreams aside, the exciting moment finally came when Milliver’s Travels got to visit one of the places Brian learned of in Motor Boating magazine: Big Chute Marine Railway on the Trent-Severn Waterway in Ontario, Canada.

Big Chute is fascinating for boat lovers and engineers alike. Brian is both. But would it prove of interest to a foo-foo type such as moi, who needs her hot shower, her well-rounded breakfast and her breve (pronounced bre-vay) sipped at the local coffee house before she’ll agree to go adventuring?

I can safely proclaim that even a girlie traveler like me found Big Chute a tourist activity not to be missed!

A load of boats crossing land via Big Chute

But how does it work? In the words of your technically-challenged friendly travel guide, Big Chute lifts boats overland from one side of the Trent-Severn to the other. It does so by allowing boats to drive onto a submerged ramp; operators then secure all craft with special webbing slings.

One of the fun parts of watching from the sidelines is seeing a collection of different-sized boats gently glide up or down the steep incline (depending on which side they entered from) as you stroll beside them on the observation sidewalk. While bikini-clad wives wave to you from the suntan decks of their pleasure craft you can hear the hard-working Big Chute operators communicating by radio.

We watched four or five loads going in both directions and never tired of the novelty.

The same load of boats from the opposite angle, as they begin their stately descent

After gloating over the main attraction you can see the remains of the Old Big Chute, built in 1917. That one could only carry boats up to 35 feet long, which ruled out a lot of larger commercial vessels.

Brochures and prominently-placed info boards also educate visitors on the flora and fauna of the region. This can be stirring stuff!

For instance, Engelmann’s Quillwort is a primitive aquatic plant with a fossil record dating back 206–248 million years. Closely related to ferns, quillwort is on the endangered list due to human development.

Meanwhile, if you didn’t already know that You Are in Black Bear Country, you can grab the brochure of the same name to learn how to avoid a bear encounter. Get the low-down on which local snakes are poisonous and which are not, and which are endangered. The Massasauga Rattlesnake is a provincially threatened reptile.

(Provinces to Canada are like states to the USA.)

You can also see a bottled example of the Sea Lamprey: a little dude with a scary smile that caused a big change in the modernization plans at Big Chute during the 1960s. The Sea Lamprey had been devastating the fishing industry; researchers had to find a way for the system to stop assisting the migration of the Lamprey before modernization could go ahead.

Lego model of Big Chute

I badly wanted to get the Big Chute documentary on DVD, but we’d spent all our money the day before on a glorious float plane ride. One of my favorite displays was the Lego model of Big Chute that was sitting underneath the TV as it played the documentary for visitors.

Big Chute is operated by Parks Canada. Located approximately three hours north of Niagara Falls, we visited Big Chute as an easy day trip from our luxury base camp: Beacon Shore on Georgian Bay B&B (Midland, Ontario). Our B&B was all the luxury you could ask for in a vacation on the Bay, but without paying the high prices.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your activity choices in the Georgian Bay area, here’s the skinny: you simply MUST put Big Chute on your list. Free to watch and the only one of its kind still operating in North America.

Bring your own breve.

Beacon Shore on Georgian Bay B&B, Midland, Ontario

Milli Thornton — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 22:57:51 +0000

The 1901 lighthouse on the front lawn, night shot

WE ARE LUCKY to be within reasonable driving distance of this B&B because we can’t wait to go back.

We’re not strangers to a good B&B. But this one truly is paradise from all angles: the gorgeous setting, the house and gardens, the extra features (how ’bout a lighthouse on the front lawn?), the private wooded acres away from the bustle of town—and our memorable hosts, Jacquie and Bob Black.

We’ve met some lovely B&B owners in our time but it was truly a wrench to leave Bob and Jacquie at the end of our stay.

(I jokingly applied for a job at Beacon Shore. On the morning when we had to leave I whimpered: “Can we live with you?”)

When it comes to the top two criteria for a successful B&B, the Blacks are experts: fabulous breakfast and the gift of making you feel at home. So much love, craftsmanship and sheer art goes into every detail.

The serene and colorful garden features a water fountain, cottage-style benches and a swing

Bob is a skilled woodworker and uses his talents to add many fine features; such as the garden structures, antique-style bathroom accents and furniture. Jacquie nourishes the cottage flower garden and keeps the house clean enough for a surprise Better Homes and Gardens inspection. The shower stall was so gleaming-white immaculate, I felt like I was the first person ever to step into it!

As we often do when Brian and I forget that a long weekend’s coming up, we booked at the last minute. The only room left was the Twin, but it looked nice on the BBCanada.com listing so we took it. The room turned out to be so charming and well-appointed, we did not feel any pinch of compromise. We were very happy with our comfy beds and our private bathroom. And we loved the view from our second-storey window of black squirrels playing in the forest.

Our Queen room was pretty as well as clean and comfortable

Since the sumptuous accommodation was such a bargain ($90 per night for the Twin)—and since we were having an unforgettable time on and around Georgian Bay—we decided to stay an extra night. The Twin room was no longer available, so we moved next door to the Queen ($100 per night).

I say “we moved” but we didn’t have to lift a finger; the Blacks did everything. We came back tired and sunburned from our visit to Big Chute to find that (with a prior courtesy notice) everything had been carefully moved for us. Talk about service with a smile!

Even with moving to the Queen room we averaged only $101 per night; including taxes, exchange rate (which was in our favor, so that helped) and international POS fees. When you consider the value added by the breakfast—top-notch menu and personal pampering; two satisfying courses with bottomless coffee—this really frees up your budget for local activities. Much appreciated! The “steal of a deal” on our accommodation meant we could pick one or two high-quality activities each day.

Among other fun things, we took a float plane ride over 30,000 Islands, cruised the waters of Georgian Bay and watched boats being lifted overland at Big Chute.

The private dock, complete with flowers & Muskoka / Adirondack chairs

With our busy schedule of activities, we didn’t have much time to linger in the garden, which was a shame. (But what a great reason to go back!) However, we did spend time relaxing in the party-colored Muskoka chairs on the lush lawn overlooking the bay. Or, should I say, the Adirondack chairs, depending on who’s doing the talking. (Bob and Jacquie have a running gag about this, based on their childhood origins.)

One of our other favorite pastimes was visiting the dock. We dabbled our tired city feet in the cool, refreshing water and soaked up the sun, while admiring the boats of many sizes that ply the waters of Georgian Bay.

If you’ve never been to Ontario, this would be the perfect place to start. So renew that passport and pack your suntan lotion. And don’t forget to order the pancakes!

Beacon Shore on Georgian Bay Bed & Breakfast, Midland, Ontario, Canada

P.S. Feast your eyes (and soul) on Bob and Jacquie’s amazing breakfasts in my special article: Best Ever B&B Breakfast.

Beacon Shore has been reviewed by Janette Higgins, author of The Best Places to B&B in Ontario: A Selective Guide. Janette says: “Every Ontario bed and breakfast receives my consideration. I travel incognito, pay where I stay and write reviews of the top 5%.” Read Janette’s review on the testimonials page for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com.

Best Ever B&B Breakfast

Milli Thornton — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 00:48:33 +0000

Travel writer’s note from Milli Thornton: I reviewed this B&B as a paying guest.

BEACON SHORE ON GEORGIAN BAY BED & BREAKFAST is located in Midland, Ontario on the southeastern end of a stunning body of water. The wonders of this Canadian B&B call for a separate article, but first you simply must hear about the breakfast.

Brian and I are breakfast people. We’re fussy breakfast people! So when I pronounce my “best ever” in writing, you can bet it’s not just food; it’s an all-round experience.

Owners Jacquie & Bob Black prepare breakfast dressed in spiffy white chef coats. And they have the genteel but professional style of hospitality to go with the fancy attire. Jacquie serves each eye-catching course with a flourish of showmanship and a persuasive description of the dish.

Not that any persuasion is needed. If you think it looks delicious in the photos, wait till you taste it while admiring the water view—and while being pampered by people so dear you want to take them home with you when the vacation is over.

Bob is the fruit man and the “toast master.” When you see his toast knots (like the center of a Celtic knot) you’ll agree he deserves to be dubbed master. And his fruit plates are nothing short of divine.

Bob's famous seasonal fruit plate

Allow me to rave for a moment about “Bob’s famous seasonal fruit plate.” When I saw that mentioned on BBCanada.com, it didn’t light me on fire with anticipation. I’m not a fruit eater, for two reasons. One, I have trouble digesting it unless I eat it on a completely empty stomach. Two, with all the artifical ripening that goes on these days, I refuse to bother with floury or crunchy-when-it-shouldn’t-be fruit.

But if I could have Bob serve me a fruit plate every morning, I’d willingly become a big fruit eater!

The fruit plate comes out first, so that took care of my digestion issue. And I never once had to choke down a floury or crunchy piece of fruit. Everything was tender and juicy. After three days of this marvel, I asked Bob for his secret. He said, “I never serve anything I wouldn’t eat myself.” The Blacks keep a separate fridge for their fruit supplies. They nurse the fruit just like they care for their guests: with great heart and panache.

Jacqui was a teacher for 32 years (specializing in what was known back in my high school days as Home Economics), and she obviously understands a balanced diet. Her menu is not all starch and sugar as many American offerings seem to be, and the ingredients are high quality.

For me, protein is a must to start my day. If I don’t have protein, my blood sugar takes a dive later in the day. Accordingly, I went for the Sailor’s Wrap: mushroom, mild onion and cheese snuggled in a two-egg omelet, with bacon and wholegrain toasted breads. The Sailor’s Wrap was yummy and fueled me for a day of cruising on Georgian Bay . . . but I had my eye on a bigger prize.

While planning our trip I’d looked at everything on the Black’s BBCanada.com listing, including the breakfast menu. When I saw Beacon Shore Pancakes: Jacquie’s personal recipe for buttermilk pancakes bulging with plump blueberries, accompanied by bacon and real maple syrup —along with a tantalizing photo of the dish—I was sorely tempted. But I knew the bacon would not be enough protein for me. No problem! Jacquie cheerfully gave me two pancakes instead of three, with a side of poached egg. Perfect.

Guess what I ordered for the remaining two mornings of our visit?!

When I refer to being fussy about breakfast, pancakes feature high on the list. I rarely bother with them because I hate being disappointed. After a childhood of home-made huckleberry pancakes, prepared in a cabin by the lake in Montana (the berries hand-picked by myself and my seven siblings), don’t give me a stodgy or soggy pancake dotted with a few pathetic berries and expect me to give you my repeat business.

But when Jacquie says “bulging with plump blueberries” she means it! The pancakes themselves were tasty, attractive and expertly prepared, not just a vehicle for blueberries.

Brian also homed in on his favorites. He’s partial to a good Eggs Benedict so he started with Georgian Bay Eggs Benedict. On our first morning, we shared a table with a friendly couple from Toronto, Jane and Rick. Brian was intrigued when Jane had Captain’s Sausage & Cheese Casserole, so thereafter he alternated between that and the Eggs Benedict.

When asked about his breakfast experience, Brian said: “It was righteous, dude!”

(Now you can see why he’s the photographer and I’m the writer. Hehe.)

View from the patio, taken in the afternoon (note the small lighthouse in the shadows to the right)

Fun adornments made coming to the table each morning an adventure. For napkin holders there were tiny Adirondack chairs (to mirror the life-size ones on the lawn), colorful flip-flops and miniature canoe oars.

There were three inviting breakfast locations and we got to try them all: the dining room, the sunroom and the patio. The patio was my all-time winner.

What could be finer in life than eating a fabulous breakfast on a patio overlooking a bay sparkling with sunlight, and busy with sail boats and cruisers?

There were many highlights during our trip to Georgian Bay. But my idyllic moments on the patio of Beacon Shore, enjoying Breakfast Heaven to the chatter of chipmunks, has been burned into my DNA as a five-star memory.

Check out the main article about Beacon Shore on Milliver’s Travels

Check out the listing for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com

Beacon Shore has been reviewed by Janette Higgins, author of The Best Places to B&B in Ontario: A Selective Guide. Janette says: “Every Ontario bed and breakfast receives my consideration. I travel incognito, pay where I stay and write reviews of the top 5%.” Read Janette’s review on the testimonials page for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com.

Gallivanting in Halifax

Roona — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 21:30:08 +0000

By guest blogger Roona

THANKS TO THE United States Citizenship and Immigration Services, in the summer of 2009 I took a solitary trip to Nova Scotia. After renewing my work visa in the country, I had to go to a consulate outside the country to get it stamped in my passport. The closest place where I could get an appointment for consular services was Halifax, Canada. It reportedly took a week’s time to complete the process, so I had an entire week there to myself.

On the harbor in Halifax

I stayed in Hotel Westin close to the harbor with views of the ocean. The town is small enough to walk everywhere, so I did and I had a blast! On the days I had to go there, the consulate work was over in a moment and the rest of the time was mine to gallivant to my heart’s content.

It was cold and raining during most of my stay but this only added to the charm of the place. After a bone-chilling walk on the harbor, I would buy coffee and fresh-caught fried fish from a stall and enjoy it in the warmth of my room. Every day was a delight of flavors with fresh seafood available everywhere! I would get up early in the mornings and run to the crepe stalls for chocolate hazelnut crepes for breakfast. There was even an authentic Persian food shack close by my hotel, where I enjoyed some awesome lamb and chicken with saffron rice.

Once, when I had a bad sinus headache from all those walks in cold weather, I scouted a tiny Indian kiosk in a mall and requested some Masala chai—strong black tea with milk, sugar and spices including cinnamon, cloves, peppercorn, cardamom and nutmeg.

There’s tons to be done and savored in and around Halifax. The Citadel is still in great condition, with a military museum and military routines of bygone days enacted for spectators. This includes a cannon firing at noon and soul-stirring bagpipe music. I spent hours sitting there listening to music on another of those cold, misting, rainy days.

Starting day of the tall ships race

I walked around the Atlantic Maritime Museum looking at the relics of the Titanic, which sank off the coast of Halifax. I went for a pirate boat ride on a sailboat with a true-blue, old-time sailor at the helm whose drawling, mellifluous speech made even curse words sound beatific. I was lucky to land there on the starting day of the tall ships race; the row of huge ships lining the harbor was an awe-inspiring sight.

One evening I had a chance to watch a Shakespearean comedy in an outdoor theater. Put on by a theatre company called Shakespeare by the Sea, it was a hilarious production of Love’s Labour’s Lost. I laughed my guts out sitting on a camp chair in the ruins of Cambridge Battery in Point Pleasant Park, with the unseen Atlantic Ocean in the distance and the slow summer nightfall.

The highlight of my trip was a jaunt to a little fishing village called Peggy’s Cove. Situated near grey-black rocks on the coast, in this quaint little run-down village is a lighthouse overlooking the vast Atlantic Ocean. Yet again, it was one of those stormy days with incessant rains and cold winds. What better atmosphere to relish a lighthouse on the rocks?

As I stood next to the lighthouse, looking at the ocean with its grey-green waters, foaming waves lashing the rocks, the ocean spray and the misting rain, I easily forgot I was living in the 21st century. Just for a moment, I was transported back in time to when this place was a thriving village, where the lighthouse was key to the safety and wellbeing of the ocean vessels coming in to harbor.

Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove

Then, hot seafood chowder and old-fashioned gingerbread with lemon cream icing in the only restaurant by the lighthouse. Although an over-priced tourist trap, the food was delicious and the place more than made up for the price.

Food and activities aside, there is one more glorious thing about Halifax: the shopping! It may be a small place but it has some beautiful shops and boutiques. I was thrilled to find a gorgeous scarf the likes of which I had never seen anywhere else, and beautiful artwork such as dried flowers pressed on to glass; the whole looking almost ethereal. Tartans, wool, and Scottish paraphernalia are also worth looking at. Walking around town, you can find everything from antique stores to flea markets, New Age stuff to American brands costing way more than they do in the US.

I had a joyful time, enjoying everything from the cold rains to the lilting Scottish/Gaelic accents of the local people. After returning home to Cleveland, for a few days I actually felt homesick for Halifax!

———-

Roona

Roona has lived and worked in India and the United States and recently moved back to India. In the process of settling down in her home country, she continues to miss her life in the USA. On the other hand, for the first time in her life she has an opportunity to focus on her one true passion: writing. She blogs at IndiaRepat and Aesara Says.

Laos and the MWH Project

Debra Woods — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 23:05:19 +0000

By guest blogger Debra Woods

Hmong mother with baby

I had the good fortune during 2007 & ‘08 to work on a project in three southern Lao provinces, the poorest in the country—Attapeu, Saravan and Sekong. Our project’s main aim was to reduce the maternal and infant mortality rates in these areas. Laos has the highest maternal mortality ratio in East and Southeast Asia.

We built 17 Maternity Waiting Homes (MWH) that provide medical care to pregnant women and new mothers. Many of the homes are in remote areas and the women are from varied ethnic minorities. They are used to giving birth at home in their villages and prefer this to coming to the hospital.

Although there may be a woman in the village who can attend the delivery and has some experience, they do not have enough proper training nor do they have the most basic of equipment such as sterile gloves. If a complication should arise during the labor or delivery, such as bleeding too much, the woman must be taken to the nearest hospital. This could take too much time or there may not be available transportation or the roads could be washed out if it’s the rainy season. More often women deliver with a family member or alone.

Pregnant women at MWH

Our project’s aim was to encourage women to come to birth in the hospital where they could receive proper care and have a safe, clean delivery. Women would arrive from their villages to stay at the MWH prior to giving birth. There they receive health education on a variety of topics, focusing especially on family planning, birth spacing, nutrition, breastfeeding and newborn care.

Often women are malnourished and anemic and their babies born prematurely or at a low birth weight. They receive antenatal care and for some it is the first time they have seen a nurse during their pregnancy. They are examined and this helps to identify problems that can cause complications during the labor.

The women also receive rice daily to add to their own food. Gardens have been created next to each home to provide additional nutrition to the women and their family members who stay with them. Women feel comfortable at the MWH as they say it is so like their own home. They prefer to stay at the home as opposed to the adjacent hospital and usually an hour or so after delivery, move back over to the MWH to recover.

Ms. Neow doing Yu Fai

There the women do the traditional ‘yu fai’ for a few days. Yu fai is a practice involving the women lying on a bamboo bed that has burning charcoal underneath. They rest here for a number of days as a type of cleansing. More charcoal is added as needed to keep the room and bed very hot.

This practice is adhered to by all women. Our project explained to women the dangers inherent in this practice, that of breathing in carbon monoxide from the burning charcoal. We could not change the practice, but women agreed to have more ventilation in the room and not expose their newborns too much to the fumes.

Once the nurses determine that both mother and baby are fine and breastfeeding is well established, the family returns home to their village.

Khamsone teaching a class

Breastfeeding is a topic that requires much discussion and hands-on support. Women need encouragement to feed their baby as needed and to understand the value of the ‘yellow’ milk (colostrum). For some ethnic minorities, this milk is discarded—preventing the baby from receiving the benefits, such as protection from illness. Through the work of many different health organizations, awareness is growing, particularly among the current generation of mothers, of the value of colostrum and so the old practice is fading out.

My involvement included working with the staff, particularly the nurses, to ensure proper care for the women. As a certified childbirth educator, birth and postpartum support person (doula) and breastfeeding consultant, I was able to provide education and support to them.

This project ended in September 2008, although the homes are still in use today.

Weaver making rebozo

As part of the ongoing support to the homes, women weavers are making Lao rebozos that are being sold in Canada. These long pieces of colorful cotton fabric are used during labor and birth to help laboring women and they are also used as baby carriers. A portion of the profits goes back into the MWH project to create sustainability.

Anyone wishing more information about this project or how to obtain a Lao rebozo, please contact Debra at debra.laos @ gmail.com. (Be sure to take the spaces out of her email address before you hit Send.)

In addition, the purchase of products on Debra’s Website, www.asiantribalwares.com, will help towards the sustainability of the Maternity Waiting Homes.

Debra Woods

DEBRA WOODS has been living the life of a nomad for many moons, beginning at eighteen when she traveled to Europe and then found herself hitchhiking across the Sahara Desert, onto Turkey via Greece and then overland to India. After only a few days in India she met the man who was to become her guru, leading her on the eternal quest for truth and to know one’s true nature. Her love of travel has taken her to numerous countries around the globe. She currently resides in Vancouver on the West Coast of Canada, enjoying the rain forest and mild winter. Her latest idea is to travel to Fez, Morocco for the 16th Annual World Sacred Music Festival in June.

Vienna’s Open Air Cinema

Tatiana Lensky — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 00:27:48 +0000

By guest blogger Tatiana Lensky

Vienna, Austria

IT’S LATE AUGUST and a sweltering hot, late afternoon in Vienna. Austria. You know, Sound of Music, Mozart and such . . . that’s where I’m currently living. And, yes, summer days here can remind one of a Chicago swelter.

Gradually cooling, the steady progression of twilight soothes the steamy heated tempers of irate drivers, panting pooches, brave tourists and other city dwellers.

I am waiting for the tram to take me around the “Ring” to the Rathausplatz or City Hall Square. The Ring is a boulevard lined with trees, parks and palatial buildings circling the historic inner city.

A spot of shade under the art deco arcade of the Bristol hotel beckons. The cool relief lets me concentrate better on the goings on around me. I observe the still-hectic pace as the working day eases into evening. An open deck double-decker bus, fire engine red and filled with tourists, approaches the Opera House across the street. The roasted tourists wearily descend . . . well, some actually tumble and head straight for the fountain splashing jovialy nearby.

I admire summer city tourists. When it’s 35° C outside, it takes a special brand of curiousity mixed with mega endurance to conquer museums, castles, gardens, historic walks and souvenir shopping.

A Mozart melody drifts up from the underground passage. Practical but nonetheless cultural: a musical lavatory, WC or restroom, as we call it. For about one dollar, you can do your business and wash your hands to the tune of “A Little Night Music.” I never tried it.

So, where was I? Oh, yes, on my way to the Rathausplatz.

Every July and August, the Open Air Cinema is a staple of the Vienna Festival weeks; a riotous, bohemian compilation of cultural events throughout the entire city. Neo-Gothic style City Hall (think Disney Castle and medieval fortress with flowers on the balconies) is the backdrop for screened performances of opera, ballet and classical concerts. Admission free.

I get there a couple hours ahead of time. Winding down under the cuculoris* of speckled light and shade.

Majestically lodged in a seemingly endless succession of all these architectural megaliths, City Hall is perched between the University of Vienna on one end and Parliament on the south end.

The symmetry of the—at first glance—quite foreboding building and sumptuous grounds reminds me of a tall, spine-of-steel baroque lady with a corset and ridiculously wide, overly-embellished brocade skirt.

Fortunately, there is nothing over-decorated about the gardens. The redeeming attraction for me. A light touch of tended garden; a larger dose of fairy tale forest. The dichotomy of the Austrian mentality somehow reflected in their parks. Austere with casual. Outwardly formal, look a bit closer and you’ll find a charming untidiness.

Trees of all shapes and sizes, bushes, hedges, flowers offer a lavishly cool, shaded oasis. Wild roses encircle some of the lamp posts. The heavy, sweet smell engulfs me in a cloud of scent as I stroll by; oblivious and shielded from the blaring, bumper-to-bumper crazy evening rush-hour asphalt jungle.

On the grass, or on a bench, there’s alway a spot far from the madding crowd. My book keeps me company until I am ready to dive into the crowd on the large, catwalk-shaped square known as Rathausplatz.

I must admit, the delicious smell of food lures me away all too easily from the Yorkshire moors of Wuthering Heights. Booths line the square, with specialties from all over the world; food being cooked, boiled, roasted and barbecued on open fires. Paellas, Australian kangaroo steaks, Turkish kebabs, spicy Indian curry, or a typical Viennese sausage. An intoxicating, mouth-watering mix of grilled delights. Hard time making up my mind what to eat.

Finally, I decide on a kebab with no onions and a special Australian fruit juice drink. I manage to grab the remaining seat at one of the tables clustered around the fountain. Just watching. People watching. I like doing that.

As the sky goes from purple to black ink, the stars glittering above, I move toward one of the empty seats in the transient amphitheater under the stars.

Tonight they are showing Prokovieff’s Cinderella; one of my all-time favorites.

An injection of nourishment for the soul. Music . . . film . . . the stars listening . . . definitely works for me.

*Cuculoris In lighting for film, theatre and still photography, a cuculoris (occasionally also spelled cucoloris, kookaloris or cucalorus) is a device for casting shadows or silhouettes to produce patterned illumination.

Tatiana Lensky

TATIANA LENSKY was born in Baltimore and grew up in LA. She left home early to attend boarding school in Europe. Tatiana has spent most of her grown-up life living “kinda everywhere.” Mostly Europe. Previous professions: ballet dancer, camera assistant, assistent director, producer (of ads, mostly). She is currently living in Vienna, where her son is finishing school.

Tatiana is going to uni, studying English and American Literature. She is a blogger and she writes. (“I’ll be a writer when I publish my first book.”) Through her jobs in the film and advertising business, she has had the luck to travel to lots of countries and live in some of them. She’s still searching for the one place that is home. Tatiana blogs at Challenge Venus or Advance Your Worth.

Think Globally, Travel Locally

Milli Thornton — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 19:38:12 +0000

By Milli Thornton

WHEN WE SAY travel, we tend to think of world travel—or at least going to another county or state. But most of us travel every day without giving it much thought. Sure, we might be more conscious these days of the cost of gas (and its impact on the environment), but how much do we know that our local travel can make a big impact in other ways?

Do you have a beaten path to Wal-Mart, Target, Starbucks, etc. that you could almost drive in your sleep? I’m not suggesting you never shop in those places, but adding some new travel habits to your routine could prove life-changing.

Thanks to online friend Judy Clement Wall of Zebra Sounds, I’m now a member of the 3/50 project: Saving the Brick and Mortars Our Nation Is Built On. Have a look at these numbers from their site:

Get behind the 3/50 project!
3 – Which three independently-owned businesses would you miss if they disappeared?

50 – If half the employed population spent $50 each month in locally-owned independent businesses, it would generate more than $42.6 billion in revenue. Imagine the impact if 3/4 of our employed population did that.

Below are my picks for the 3/50 project. I already have fun spending at least $50 a month between them, so my extra push is to feature them online with a link to each business.

My 'serene' route for errands

Also, I take the scenic route through Mill Creek Park whenever I can. This keeps me calm and serene for driving and feels like I’m treating myself.

Brian tells me I’m saving gas because I’m driving slower (35 mph) and not doing the Stop-Go for traffic lights and stop signs. I get to share the road with walkers, joggers and bike riders instead of maniacs in SUVs.

Peaberry’s Café & Bakery

4350 Boardman-Canfield Road, Canfield, Ohio 44406, Ph: (330) 702-9230

Having a local coffee hang-out is essential to my writer’s lifestyle, and Peaberry’s meets my stringent criteria. The coffee’s always perfect (I drink double-shot breves), the service friendly, and I can sit in one of the quiet back booths to write.

Peaberry’s also makes killer gourmet sandwiches. My favorite at the moment is the #9: Cucumber with Asiago Peppercorn, Red Onion and Muenster Cheese on Croissant (I ask for turkey to be added). Yum!

The Flaming Ice Cube: Vegan Shoppe & Café

1449 Boardman-Canfield Rd., Suite 260, Boardman, OH 44512, Ph: (330) 726-4766

I *love* this business! I’m not vegan so I’ve only eaten in the café once, but I do love to shop in the eco-friendly New Age half of the store. I have bought candles, aromatherapy, books, a water fountain, CDs and other treasures. I found an agate candle-holder-cum-bookend that was just what I needed for a shelf in my office.

Cool merchandise: The Flaming Ice Cube

For Christmas, I shopped ahead for my busy husband, and then all he had to do was go pay and pick up my items. I still use my “surprise” Christmas gift—a Himalayan Crystal Salt Lamp—in my office every day.

Fittingly for the theme of this article, the sign in the picture reads:

Life isn’t about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself.

Health Food Center of Youngstown
(new Website coming soon)

6015 Market Street, Boardman, Ohio 44512, Ph: (330) 965-1515

I buy a lot of herbs and supplements, and I’m fussy about the quality of what I consume. This shop not only feels inviting as you walk inside, they do stock many items I was buying online.

I’ve also bought organic bananas for my organic banana bread, neem toothpaste (Do you read your toothpaste label? Do you know what you’re putting on your gums?), herbal shampoo, almond milk for my protein powder and more.

Which three businesses will you (or do you) support in your local area?

Visit the 3/50 project for more inspiration!

————-

MILLI INTERVIEWED ABOUT THE 30/50 PROJECT ON WKBN:

[See post to watch Flash video]

Story by Steve Pacer of WKBN, Youngstown, Ohio. Thanks, Steve!