He’d love to do the San Juan Islands in a Nordhavn 62-footer (around $2 million pre-loved, including VIP stateroom). Or, for those moments when the budget calls for something a little more modest, how ’bout the Saint Lawrence River in a 29-foot Ranger Tug (just under $225,000 for the 2010 model).

Millionaire dreams aside, the exciting moment finally came when Milliver’s Travels got to visit one of the places Brian learned of in Motor Boating magazine: Big Chute Marine Railway on the Trent-Severn Waterway in Ontario, Canada.

Big Chute is fascinating for boat lovers and engineers alike. Brian is both. But would it prove of interest to a foo-foo type such as moi, who needs her hot shower, her well-rounded breakfast and her breve (pronounced bre-vay) sipped at the local coffee house before she’ll agree to go adventuring?

I can safely proclaim that even a girlie traveler like me found Big Chute a tourist activity not to be missed!

A load of boats crossing land via Big Chute

But how does it work? In the words of your technically-challenged friendly travel guide, Big Chute lifts boats overland from one side of the Trent-Severn to the other. It does so by allowing boats to drive onto a submerged ramp; operators then secure all craft with special webbing slings.

One of the fun parts of watching from the sidelines is seeing a collection of different-sized boats gently glide up or down the steep incline (depending on which side they entered from) as you stroll beside them on the observation sidewalk. While bikini-clad wives wave to you from the suntan decks of their pleasure craft you can hear the hard-working Big Chute operators communicating by radio.

We watched four or five loads going in both directions and never tired of the novelty.

The same load of boats from the opposite angle, as they begin their stately descent

After gloating over the main attraction you can see the remains of the Old Big Chute, built in 1917. That one could only carry boats up to 35 feet long, which ruled out a lot of larger commercial vessels.

Brochures and prominently-placed info boards also educate visitors on the flora and fauna of the region. This can be stirring stuff!

For instance, Engelmann’s Quillwort is a primitive aquatic plant with a fossil record dating back 206–248 million years. Closely related to ferns, quillwort is on the endangered list due to human development.

Meanwhile, if you didn’t already know that You Are in Black Bear Country, you can grab the brochure of the same name to learn how to avoid a bear encounter. Get the low-down on which local snakes are poisonous and which are not, and which are endangered. The Massasauga Rattlesnake is a provincially threatened reptile.

(Provinces to Canada are like states to the USA.)

You can also see a bottled example of the Sea Lamprey: a little dude with a scary smile that caused a big change in the modernization plans at Big Chute during the 1960s. The Sea Lamprey had been devastating the fishing industry; researchers had to find a way for the system to stop assisting the migration of the Lamprey before modernization could go ahead.

Lego model of Big Chute

I badly wanted to get the Big Chute documentary on DVD, but we’d spent all our money the day before on a glorious float plane ride. One of my favorite displays was the Lego model of Big Chute that was sitting underneath the TV as it played the documentary for visitors.

Big Chute is operated by Parks Canada. Located approximately three hours north of Niagara Falls, we visited Big Chute as an easy day trip from our luxury base camp: Beacon Shore on Georgian Bay B&B (Midland, Ontario). Our B&B was all the luxury you could ask for in a vacation on the Bay, but without paying the high prices.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your activity choices in the Georgian Bay area, here’s the skinny: you simply MUST put Big Chute on your list. Free to watch and the only one of its kind still operating in North America.

Bring your own breve.

Photos Copyright © 2010 Brian Williams & Milli Thornton

The 1901 lighthouse on the front lawn, night shot

We’ve met some lovely B&B owners in our time but it was truly a wrench to leave Bob and Jacquie at the end of our stay.

(I jokingly applied for a job at Beacon Shore. On the morning when we had to leave I whimpered: “Can we live with you?”)

When it comes to the top two criteria for a successful B&B, the Blacks are experts: fabulous breakfast and the gift of making you feel at home. So much love, craftsmanship and sheer art goes into every detail.

The serene and colorful garden features a water fountain, cottage-style benches and a swing

As we often do when Brian and I forget that a long weekend’s coming up, we booked at the last minute. The only room left was the Twin, but it looked nice on the BBCanada.com listing so we took it. The room turned out to be so charming and well-appointed, we did not feel any pinch of compromise. We were very happy with our comfy beds and our private bathroom. And we loved the view from our second-storey window of black squirrels playing in the forest.

Our Queen room was pretty as well as clean and comfortable

I say “we moved” but we didn’t have to lift a finger; the Blacks did everything. We came back tired and sunburned from our visit to Big Chute to find that (with a prior courtesy notice) everything had been carefully moved for us. Talk about service with a smile!

Even with moving to the Queen room we averaged only $101 per night; including taxes, exchange rate (which was in our favor, so that helped) and international POS fees. When you consider the value added by the breakfast—top-notch menu and personal pampering; two satisfying courses with bottomless coffee—this really frees up your budget for local activities. Much appreciated! The “steal of a deal” on our accommodation meant we could pick one or two high-quality activities each day.

Among other fun things, we took a float plane ride over 30,000 Islands, cruised the waters of Georgian Bay and watched boats being lifted overland at Big Chute.

The private dock, complete with flowers & Muskoka / Adirondack chairs

One of our other favorite pastimes was visiting the dock. We dabbled our tired city feet in the cool, refreshing water and soaked up the sun, while admiring the boats of many sizes that ply the waters of Georgian Bay.

If you’ve never been to Ontario, this would be the perfect place to start. So renew that passport and pack your suntan lotion. And don’t forget to order the pancakes!

Beacon Shore on Georgian Bay Bed & Breakfast, Midland, Ontario, Canada

P.S. Feast your eyes (and soul) on Bob and Jacquie’s amazing breakfasts in my special article: Best Ever B&B Breakfast.

Beacon Shore has been reviewed by Janette Higgins, author of The Best Places to B&B in Ontario: A Selective Guide. Janette says: “Every Ontario bed and breakfast receives my consideration. I travel incognito, pay where I stay and write reviews of the top 5%.” Read Janette’s review on the testimonials page for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com.

Travel writer’s note from Milli Thornton: I reviewed this B&B as a paying guest.

BEACON SHORE ON GEORGIAN BAY BED & BREAKFAST is located in Midland, Ontario on the southeastern end of a stunning body of water. The wonders of this Canadian B&B call for a separate article, but first you simply must hear about the breakfast.

Brian and I are breakfast people. We’re fussy breakfast people! So when I pronounce my “best ever” in writing, you can bet it’s not just food; it’s an all-round experience.

Owners Jacquie & Bob Black prepare breakfast dressed in spiffy white chef coats. And they have the genteel but professional style of hospitality to go with the fancy attire. Jacquie serves each eye-catching course with a flourish of showmanship and a persuasive description of the dish.

Not that any persuasion is needed. If you think it looks delicious in the photos, wait till you taste it while admiring the water view—and while being pampered by people so dear you want to take them home with you when the vacation is over.

Bob is the fruit man and the “toast master.” When you see his toast knots (like the center of a Celtic knot) you’ll agree he deserves to be dubbed master. And his fruit plates are nothing short of divine.

Bob's famous seasonal fruit plate

But if I could have Bob serve me a fruit plate every morning, I’d willingly become a big fruit eater!

The fruit plate comes out first, so that took care of my digestion issue. And I never once had to choke down a floury or crunchy piece of fruit. Everything was tender and juicy. After three days of this marvel, I asked Bob for his secret. He said, “I never serve anything I wouldn’t eat myself.” The Blacks keep a separate fridge for their fruit supplies. They nurse the fruit just like they care for their guests: with great heart and panache.

Jacqui was a teacher for 32 years (specializing in what was known back in my high school days as Home Economics), and she obviously understands a balanced diet. Her menu is not all starch and sugar as many American offerings seem to be, and the ingredients are high quality.

For me, protein is a must to start my day. If I don’t have protein, my blood sugar takes a dive later in the day. Accordingly, I went for the Sailor’s Wrap: mushroom, mild onion and cheese snuggled in a two-egg omelet, with bacon and wholegrain toasted breads. The Sailor’s Wrap was yummy and fueled me for a day of cruising on Georgian Bay . . . but I had my eye on a bigger prize.

While planning our trip I’d looked at everything on the Black’s BBCanada.com listing, including the breakfast menu. When I saw Beacon Shore Pancakes: Jacquie’s personal recipe for buttermilk pancakes bulging with plump blueberries, accompanied by bacon and real maple syrup —along with a tantalizing photo of the dish—I was sorely tempted. But I knew the bacon would not be enough protein for me. No problem! Jacquie cheerfully gave me two pancakes instead of three, with a side of poached egg. Perfect.

Guess what I ordered for the remaining two mornings of our visit?!

When I refer to being fussy about breakfast, pancakes feature high on the list. I rarely bother with them because I hate being disappointed. After a childhood of home-made huckleberry pancakes, prepared in a cabin by the lake in Montana (the berries hand-picked by myself and my seven siblings), don’t give me a stodgy or soggy pancake dotted with a few pathetic berries and expect me to give you my repeat business.

But when Jacquie says “bulging with plump blueberries” she means it! The pancakes themselves were tasty, attractive and expertly prepared, not just a vehicle for blueberries.

Brian also homed in on his favorites. He’s partial to a good Eggs Benedict so he started with Georgian Bay Eggs Benedict. On our first morning, we shared a table with a friendly couple from Toronto, Jane and Rick. Brian was intrigued when Jane had Captain’s Sausage & Cheese Casserole, so thereafter he alternated between that and the Eggs Benedict.

When asked about his breakfast experience, Brian said: “It was righteous, dude!”

(Now you can see why he’s the photographer and I’m the writer. Hehe.)

View from the patio, taken in the afternoon (note the small lighthouse in the shadows to the right)

There were three inviting breakfast locations and we got to try them all: the dining room, the sunroom and the patio. The patio was my all-time winner.

What could be finer in life than eating a fabulous breakfast on a patio overlooking a bay sparkling with sunlight, and busy with sail boats and cruisers?

There were many highlights during our trip to Georgian Bay. But my idyllic moments on the patio of Beacon Shore, enjoying Breakfast Heaven to the chatter of chipmunks, has been burned into my DNA as a five-star memory.

Check out the main article about Beacon Shore on Milliver’s Travels

Check out the listing for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com

Beacon Shore has been reviewed by Janette Higgins, author of The Best Places to B&B in Ontario: A Selective Guide. Janette says: “Every Ontario bed and breakfast receives my consideration. I travel incognito, pay where I stay and write reviews of the top 5%.” Read Janette’s review on the testimonials page for Beacon Shore on BBCanada.com.

I intend for this blog to be a lucky magnet for fun experiences, making new friends and cutting my teeth on some free-wheelin’ travel writing as I gain the skills needed to become a published travel writer.

Kissing the lucky frog seems like a good place to start. This photo of me was taken at Bonnybank Bed & Breakfast in the Twenty Valley of Ontario, Canada on May 24, 2009. My puckered lips are reaching for the lips of a wrought-iron frog prince on the terrace of the B&B.

Owner Carla Carlson shared her most special memory of a guest kissing the frog. Leaving the B&B on her way to the church, a young bride resplendent in her wedding gown leaned over to kiss the frog in a moment captured by time.

Didn’t get to see a photo of that but I’ll bet it was precious!

Do you have a symbol that, for you, represents the spirit of good luck? Please post a comment and share. Blogging is definitely more fun when my readers participate!


Lucky Frog photo Copyright © 2009 Brian Williams

Maid of the Mist, Niagara Falls

MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND was fast approaching. Living in a new city—no family here, no circle of friends yet—meant it was shaping up to be a boring, lonesome weekend if we didn’t think fast.

That’s when Brian remembered we’re less than four hours drive from Niagara Falls.

The inside scoop from various people—that the Falls on the American side are crass and commercialized—prompted the noble goal of venturing beyond Niagara and the usual tourist traps.

Searching for magic on bbcanada.com resulted in a cozy room at Bonnybank Bed & Breakfast in Vineland, Ontario, 20 minutes west of the city of St. Catherine’s. Exploring the Twenty Valley became our main focus (see Related Posts for Twenty Valley articles) and we did the Falls on the Canadian side on our way back to Ohio.

Visiting Niagara is one of those copycat things—like Disneyland—that everybody does. Commercialized? Absolutely. Tacky food, souvenirs and photo ops? You betcha. Canadian side not excluded.

The Whirlpool Aero Car

When not obsessively attempting to frame the Falls in the ultimate photo, there’s plenty of adventure to be had.

A flotilla of busy boats, all christened Maid of the Mist, will take you as close as you can safely get to Horseshoe Falls by water. The Journey Behind the Falls, the White Water Walk and the Whirlpool Aero Car allow you to experience the Falls from behind, next to and above.

Across the street from the Falls is a statue of Nikola Tesla, the genius inventor who discovered AC current. The real father of electricity, Tesla’s becoming better known these days. But he still does not share the level of fame enjoyed by Thomas Edison, the man who discovered DC current—which, incidentally, did not prove to be economical for our massive populations.

Skylon Tower, the Space Needle of Niagara

Another visual fascination was our fellow tourists. The variety of ethnicity, clothing style and language was bewitching. Until you visit Niagara for yourself you cannot grasp how much this truly is a world destination.

Time was limited; with our precious remaining hour we opted to ride the elevator to the viewing deck of Skylon Tower. The view from up top was phenomenal.

If you’re planning a trip to the Canadian side, check out the Niagara Falls Great Gorge Adventure Pass. This gives you even more than I’ve been able to mention here. Spontaneity was our theme for that weekend, but advance planning is vital if you want to do it all.

When he heard I was going to Niagara, a friend from Washington said “That one’s on my bucket list!”

Yep. Should be on everyone’s.

The volume of water crashing over Horseshoe Falls is mesmerizing. Brian took this shot from the viewing deck of Skylon Tower.

Bonnybank Bed & Breakfast

Owner Carla Carlson has lovingly preserved the history of this venerable old house, both in the house itself and by gathering written records that she makes available to guests in the cozy sunroom/reading area.

Where to start when trying to relate the delights of Bonnybank? With Carla herself.

Friendly and helpful, she will take precious time out of her busy day to educate her guests on the history of the Niagara Escarpment, plus provide tips on local activities and good places to eat. An environmentalist by word and action, Carla cares deeply about her surroundings, both inside and out.

Owner Carla Carlson with her dog Cedar

Her collection of miniature elephants sits near the stereo that plays world music during breakfast. Frogs are one of her favorites. We brought her a tiny pewter turtle from a garden shop in Jordan Village as our thank you for her house of delights.

Situated next door to an owl sanctuary, Bonnybank is surrounded by lush gardens and a colorful variety of flowers. The Carolinian woodlands across the way echoes with the bellow of bullfrogs every summer evening.

Twenty Mile Creek

Although situated amid woods and vineyards, Bonnybank is a mere two-minute drive through a winding valley to Jordan Village. Here you’ll find quaint-looking shops full of modern treasures, a yummy ice cream and chocolate shop and some wonderful restaurants.

Restaurants and tea houses in the Twenty Valley deserve their own article space. One of the special moments of our trip was when we returned from a gourmet meal at About Thyme Bistro to the comfort and romance of a camp fire lit for us by Carla in her front yard.

At least some “getaways” should involve getting away from the hurly-burly of town or city living. Bonnybank B&B is a comfortable, cozy and homey way to fulfill that basic human need.

Poppies at Bonnybank

But talk to her by phone first. Carla Carlson’s forte is to do things the old-fashioned way and to care for her guests personally—even before you arrive.

Bonnybank Bed & Breakfast, Twenty Valley, Ontario, Canada

Locate Twenty Valley on the map


All photos on this page Copyright © 2009 Milli Thornton & Brian Williams, except for the photo of Carla & Cedar which is courtesy of Carla Carlson

Milli Thornton at About Thyme Bistro

And gourmet it was.

At first I was disappointed that the tables were so tiny and the room seemed narrow. But the atmosphere of bonhomie and the taste sensations soon made it feel appropriate.

Our dining companions at the next table were a jolly couple. I could see they were getting to the same point we were, where all you can do is burst out with public proclamations about the food. So we did! And then we tried to cover as many topics as possible before they had to leave.

Brian chose fish from the specials menu and I had duck breast with brandy and red peppercorn jus. But the true highlight of the evening was the heavenly appetizer.

The pan-seared foie gras with honey spiced cake was $15 for a few precious morsels, but to the tongue it was worth every cent.

Actually, it only felt like “morsels” because we were sharing it. The serving size was elegant—I’ve never agreed with Super-Size-Me portions for appetizers—it’s just that I didn’t want it to be over so soon!

Definitely one of the most splendiferous dishes I’ve ever tasted.

The 2007 Old Vines Foch from Malivoire Wine Company cast an extra rosy glow over the evening. (See Related Posts for an article about our visit to Malivoire.)

Brian had fish, I had lamb

In 2008 About Thyme Bistro was awarded the “Gold VQA Restaurant Award of Excellence.” This little bistro in the heart of West Niagara wine country certainly deserves its award for excellence.

About Thyme Bistro, Vineland, Ontario, Canada

The Twenty Valley is a short, pleasant drive into Ontario, just beyond Niagara Falls on the Canadian side.

Locate Twenty Valley on the map


All photos on this page Copyright © 2009 Brian Williams